Monday, September 3, 2018

Food for Thought

My students often ask me what the 'typical' food of my country is. This is something that I'm not used to thinking about back home. In Ecuador, people pride themselves on their adherence to traditional cuisine. Traditional cuisine varies a bit from region to region, but as Ecuador's such a small country (comparatively speaking), the bulk of it tends to be largely the same across the whole country. You've got your secos--basically meat-based dishes cooked in a sauce (never enough!), served with a large heaping of white rice and perhaps some menestra (stewed beans). In this I'll go ahead and count any dish whose primary components are meat and rice. You've also got a whole category of plantain-based foods, some of which also combine fish because those seem to be Ecuador's most abundant resources. There are infinite bowls of liquid--among these I will count all of the caldos, locros, cremas, encebollado, and ceviche (because what is ceviche if not just fish in a bowl of lime juice?). There are wrapped corn dough foods like humitas, quimbolitos, hallacas (or hayacas because spelling is kind of a joke here), and Ecuadorian tamales. And the crowning achievement of Ecuadorian cuisine, in my opinion, is mote con fritada. Now, obviously that doesn't cover everything, but that's the general makeup of the food landscape here. What you won't find much of is deviation from tradition. Culinary experimentation is seen as sort of a novelty for aniñados and pelucones (rich people). Aside from KFC and chifa, which is Ecuadorian-style Chinese food, foreign culinary influence is largely limited to mall food courts and trendy urban neighborhoods in Quito and Guayaquil. At home, people cook what they've been cooking since the advent of farming in this region.

I have a very hard time explaining what 'typical' American food is. I'd like to think of it as what's on the Applebee's menu, but even that is littered with things like steak quesadillas, Thai shrimp salads, and three cheese chicken cavatappi. Hell, even hamburgers and hot dogs, those all-American fast food staples, are actually German. There is so much foreign influence in our food that we can't even separate it out from our own identity. You could argue that Southern soul food was born on our land, but it was still heavily influenced by West African slaves. And even then, I don't think that that sort of food accurately represents the whole of the United States. How many pig pickin's do you really think are happening in states like Washington and Connecticut? If I can't define American food by what we have available to us in the States, then I must define it by what we don't have available to us outside the States, which brings me to: Kraft.

The central unifying theme of food that we eat across the United States that is not eaten in other parts of the world is that A LOT of it is processed and packaged. Look at recipes designed for the average American cook and you'll see ingredients listed in such quantities as: 1 can of diced tomatoes, 1 package of instant pudding mix, 1 brick of Velveeta, or 1 tub of Cool Whip. My Pinterest boards are full of 'quick and easy' recipes that I can't make because they call for things like Pillsbury Crescent dough or canned frosting. I had to google the components of Bisquick because even though Bisquick is just flour, baking powder, salt, and a fat, recipes just assume you don't want to go through the trouble of mixing in a couple more ingredients. When I think of the impact that giant food manufacturers have had on American cuisine, I think of casseroles and all those horrid jello salads from the '50s, '60s, and '70s. And while we might have moved past awkwardly-molded meats, in the modern day we've replaced them with frozen-everything. Back before I entered the Peace Corps, I was a single, recent college grad cooking for one, and nearly everything I ate came from the freezer or a can. With more and more Americans delaying or forgoing marriage, having fewer kids, and working longer and harder for less pay, it only makes sense that we would gravitate toward foods that don't spoil as quickly and require spending less time in the kitchen. For a long time, processed and packaged food was the thing that paved the way for the nutritional success of Americans (until cheap sugar got the better of us), and from that legacy we derived many of the foods that I believe are uniquely American.

Monday, December 4, 2017

Annie's Packing Tips Part 3: Things

Alright, so shoes and clothing are obviously the most important things you need to bring, but they're not the only things. In fact, I'd suggest that things you wear should only be about half the things you pack. What's the other stuff you might want to bring?


  • Towel(s): Some people bring a quick-dry camping towel. That's pretty cool and it's awesome if you have one. I personally don't love the way they feel. I brought a beach towel, a bath towel, and a hand towel. That might be a lot for some people, but I have used them consistently throughout the entire time I've been here. You definitely want a towel you can take to the beach, and most host family bath towels are not fluffy in the slightest. I also lived with a host family during training that never kept towels around for drying your hands after you washed them, so I kept the hand towel in my room for that reason.
  • Your favorite pillow: Makes sleeps much easier.
  • Sheets: There's a version of the official PC Ecuador packing list that includes a set of sheets, full size, on it. This one's kinda your call. You won't really need them for the first 9 months while you're living with host families, so where they come into play is when you move out. Now, you can certainly buy sheets here, but they'll be lower quality and more expensive than what you could get back home. You also can't be certain of what size bed you'll end up getting, though most people choose a full. I don't regret giving up that space in my suitcase to bring them with me, but if you have one planned within the first 6 months at site, I'd leave them for a resupply mission.
  • Coffee maker/French press: Ok, this is only for coffee addicts. If you're the type of person who needs a good cup of coffee (or 2) every morning, you might find it worth your while to bring a small french press or something to brew coffee in. In your host family's home you will probably only find instant coffee (and it's not good). Yes, Ecuador is known for its coffee, but almost the entire supply gets exported. You can get great coffee if you're willing to splurge a bit, though.
  • Shaving cream: It's hella expensive here, so make room for a can in your luggage and use it sparingly.
  • Deodorant: Though stick deodorant is available here, it's not the norm and it costs much more for a much smaller quantity than back home. It's not that heavy, so bring yourself a decent supply.
  • Makeup: American brands are obviously very expensive here. Mascara, cover-up/foundation, and high-quality lipstick are what you want to bring extra of. There's a pretty decent liquid eyeliner you can buy here for less than $3 from a Colombian brand called Vogue. It might as well come standard issue in the med kit because I swear every single one of us has bought one. Also, if you're into particular eyeshadow palettes and primers and what not, I guess bring that, but if you're not picky about the quality of that stuff, you can find cheap versions here. If you are a pasty slice of cheesecake like me, you'll definitely want to bring various shades of foundation or any other skin-covering makeup as within 6 months, the constant exposure to the sun (we are on the equator!) will leave you looking like a well-done crème brûlée.
  • Multi-tool: I really would recommend that you bring some sort of multi-tool. I brought a Swiss Army knife with a bottle opener, corkscrew, scissors, etc. and carry it with me everywhere (even though I'm not 100% sure it's legal). I'm always saving the day with it. If you can, I'd suggest getting something that has a pliers function in addition to the aforementioned alcoholic's-best-friend uses.
  • Dental floss: Peace Corps does provide some in your med kit, but it's an unwaxed roll of absolute garbage that gets stuck in your teeth. I suggest bringing your own; it doesn't weigh much.
  • Tiny Novelty Erasers: For TEFL specifically, little erasers make great prizes for games in class. They're a good alternative to candy, and the kids will definitely use them. Pencils and stickers are also great for this.
  • Notecards: I have yet to find blank notecards or thank-you notes in Ecuador, so bring a few for writing notes to anyone who helps you out along the way, like a true American.
  • Travel-size contact solution: I brought big bottles, but I didn't think of this until Staging in Miami and made my roommate (love ya!) pick some up for me while she was at Target. If you wear contacts, you're not gonna wanna take a 12-oz. bottle of solution with you on every weekend trip. Bring several in case you lose one in the chaos of a Montañita hostel room.
  • Seasoning packets: You can find most standard herbs and spices here, but what you won't find are the pre-mixed seasonings that come in packets and take all the guesswork out for you. Things like: ranch powder, guacamole mix, taco/fajita/chili seasoning, brown gravy for Thanksgiving, and french onion dip.
  • Special foods: This is a very vague category. What are foods that are worthy of that precious luggage space? What's the point of bringing something if you're just going to eat it and it'll be gone? I'd say that as far as foods go, only bring foods for 2 reasons: 1) comfort foods to help you deal with the culture shock and cope with stress--peanut butter, your favorite candy, etc., and 2) foods you plan to prepare for special occasions--potlucks, Thanksgiving, etc. You can read my second blog post for a story about that.
  • Baking soda: While it's not completely illegal here, it is more or less illegal to sell it (in large quantities). You may be able to find it in certain tiendas in 10g packets, but it requires a lot of searching. Why? Because, drugs. This shit is more tightly controlled than Sudafed is in the U.S. Thanks, Ronald Reagan! And even if you're not one of these crunchy mofos that uses baking soda for brushing your teeth, washing your hair, washing your dishes, scrubbing your floors, washing your clothes, or any other of a million things that we already have products for, there's going to come a day when you need it for something, and you're not gonna know where to get it. So put a bit (you don't even need a whole box) in your suitcase, but make sure you hide it real good in case you get searched.

Things that really only I would find useful:
  • Portable steamer: I don't like going to work in wrinkly clothes, and I don't for a second regret bringing my steamer, especially since during training my host family's iron did not work well.
  • Sewing kit: If you know how to sew, you already know this is a must. If you don't know how to sew, I can't imagine you plan on learning anytime soon (I mean, what have you been doing with your life up to this point?), so I guess you'll just have holes in your clothes...
  • Hot glue gun: I fix far too many things with hot glue to leave home without one. You can buy them pretty cheap here though, whenever you finally realize you need one.
  • Eyeglass repair kit: I live in sunglasses and constantly need to tighten the screws on them.
  • Flashlight: Duh. You'd think they'd put this in your med kit, considering it's an essential safety tool. Most people just use the flashlights on their phones, but I prefer to save my battery whenever there's a blackout.
  • Painter's tape: For hanging stuff up on your wall without provoking the ire of your host mom or risking not getting your deposit back (though most people say that with landlords here, there's very little chance of you ever seeing that deposit again anyway).
  • Water filter pitcher (Brita-type): Another one of the seemingly ridiculous things I brought with me. I grew up in the "Town of Perfect Water," so I've always been picky about water quality. For the last year and a half I spent back in the U.S., I lived in a city with water that sometimes smelled or tasted funny, so I got used to filtering my drinking water. Here, you obviously still need to boil your water (never put water straight from the tap in--it doesn't filter out bacteria and can in fact cause them to grow more quickly!), but the filter may improve the flavor and color of the water. Or maybe it's just a placebo effect. Idk, but my bougie ass needs the peace of mind.
Things you DON'T need to bring with you:
  • Anything in your med kit: Your med kit comes with ibuprofen, acetaminophen, antacids, antihistamines, phenylephrine (decongestant), bismuth tablets (Pepto-Bismol), anti-diarrheal tablets (Immodium), bandaids, gauze, medical tape, scissors, bandages, antibacterial ointment, cough drops/throat lozenges (usually cherry flavored), anti-itch gel, antifungal cream, hydrocortisone cream, antiseptic wash, a thermometer, eye drops, latex gloves, tweezers, SPF chapstick, iodine tablets (for water purification), condoms, and oral rehydration salts (a.k.a. hangover juice). PCMOs will refill nearly everything in it as often as you ask (except for the anti-diarrheals), so long as you give them a decent window of time to get it to you (and sometimes you need to keep reminding them). Bring just enough of a first-aid kit to get you through staging and the first two days of training.
  • Sunscreen: You get 4 bottles of SPF-30 per year, courtesy of PC. Anything beyond that is on you. You may think that's not enough for your pasty white ass, but after the first couple of burns, your skin starts to become more resistant to the sun, and you tend to skip the sunscreen. Worry about wrinkles and cancer when you're old and it's too late.
  • Insect repellent: PCMOs provide unlimited refills of insect repellent, which is by no means as strong as Off! Deep Woods, but really, the mosquitoes only come out during rainy season.
Some people brought sleeping bags with them, and I still haven't decided if that's a Do or Don't. It's nice for them whenever they go stay at somebody's house because they have somewhere to sleep, but I've never been able to sleep on a hard floor with just a sleeping bag anyway. I ended up just buying an air mattress here, and I take it with me when I know I'll be staying at someone's house. (I also use it to entice people to come visit me in Guayaquil.) I guess if you're a super avid camper, you might want one?

That's a pretty good list for now. If I think of other stuff, maybe I'll write another post (after I've COSed, to keep with the timeline).

Monday, November 27, 2017

Annie's Packing Tips Part 2: Clothes

I'm going to avoid giving you specific advice on quantities of clothing to bring because every person dresses differently. Instead, here are some general guidelines and tips learned from mistakes (and wins!) I made in packing.

1. When packing clothing, have an A-team and a B-team. Your A-team are your must haves: essentials you will wear all the time, special items you can't leave home without, and required clothing for your job. Your B-team are extras: the difference between 5 t-shirts and 10, a pair of pants that kind of looks like another pair you already packed, socks your grandma sent you. Pack your A-team first but keep the B-team close by and ready, and add them to your suitcase if you have a couple of pounds to spare.

2. I already said this, but pack with Pre-Service Training in mind. That doesn't mean pack like your going to the Himalayas; rather, plan for a transitional fall-esque wardrobe. It'll be warm during the day and cold in the evening/at night/early in the morning, and it also rains for half the year. Bring layers that you can strip down and build back up, so that you also have something that works for the Coast. (By the way, sweaters/cardigans are not completely useless on the Coast. The A/C in a Sweet & Coffee can be something fierce!)

3. Know yourself as a person. You're not going to dramatically change the way you dress, so don't bring clothes that are a complete departure from your style. Many people go into the Peace Corps because they are looking to shake up their lives (I know I did), but don't make the mistake of thinking you can forcibly reinvent yourself--it won't take. If you do go through a style evolution, it will happen naturally and be directly influenced by your new surroundings; you can't predict a change like this. Along those same lines, don't invest in all sorts of adventure gear if you're not already a habitual mountain climber/scuba diver/adventure sportsman. You might get invited to go on a hike or two with a large group of people, but these usually aren't the sort you'd need specialty gear for. If somebody does invite you on an outing that requires gear you don't own, it's probably a sign that you are not physically or mentally prepared for something that extreme and should decline the offer. I am not an outdoorsy person, and tennis shoes/duck boots and a waterproof jacket have served me just fine on every hike I've been on, despite the fact that almost all of them culminated in me whining about how much I hate nature.

4. Ladies (and this could apply to guys): bring at least 1 cute "going out" outfit (see: clubbing) for cold weather and 1 for warm weather. Clubbing, or at least going out to bars, is a big part of Peace Corps culture, and you will partake (unless you're just truly an anti-social hermit of the highest order).

5. Also for ladies (or humans of the skirt-wearing variety): bring dresses that can be worn with and without leggings and that actually look cute BOTH WAYS to give yourself a more weather-variable wardrobe that takes up the same amount of space as a single-climate wardrobe. Obviously, bring a few pairs of tights and leggings of various thicknesses to wear under your dresses as well. (I brought 2 sheath dresses, and while they're great for school here on the coast, they didn't look that great with tights so I hardly ever wore them in the sierra.)

6. Bring at least 1 pair of ultrathin spandex shorts to wear underneath summer skirts and dresses. The thigh rub is REAL!

7. I have a few recommendations on jeans. Peace Corps will tell you that you cannot wear ripped/distressed jeans under any circumstances. With perhaps the exception of a few extremely conservative sites, that is a lie. You just can't wear them to school/work, training, meetings with government officials, or church. On the street/on weekends is fine. Many younger Ecuadorians do. That being said, I'm not a fan of ripped jeans unless they are the distressed-and-patched sort, so I'd advise against them on an aesthetic level. I'm sure you will rip a normal pair while you're here anyway. I brought 3 pairs of jeans total: 1 medium wash slim, 1 black skinny, and 1 dark wash wide trouser leg. The first 2 are definitely the ones I wear most often, and I wish I had brought 1 more pair of similar jeans. The trouser leg I brought because I figured they could be worn in more professional settings, but I didn't wear them often because they were too long to wear with flats and I didn't bring any cute boots! Overall, I'd suggest around 4 pairs of jeans for women, with at least 1 being dark enough to pass for business casual and at least 3 being of a solid wash (i.e. not sandblasted, acid washed, or distressed in any way) with no holes, embroidery, or appliques. You can wear these to training.

8. Other Pants
For women: In addition to jeans, I brought 1 pair of tapered suit pants, 3 pairs of ankle/cropped pants, and 1 pair of loose lightweight joggers. I wore the ankle pants during training but I was cold almost every time I wore them; however, they have been a lifesaver here on the coast. I wear them to school more often than anything else.
For men: I'd suggest a lot of chinos/khakis/cotton twill pants. Sadly, I don't think there's a male equivalent of cropped pants that would actually be considered work-appropriate. Also, there's just something about a guy in chinos and a shirt with the sleeves rolled up...

9. For skirts, follow the same rule as dresses: equally wearable with or without tights.

10. Bring more undergarments than you imagine you need. I probably brought about 20 pairs of underwear and 10 months in, I'm already tired of wearing the same damn underwear all the time. Bras wear out way faster if you're on the coast because of all the sweat, so bring more bras than you think you need too. For both, but especially the underwear, you may want to bring some that you don't wear right away but cycle into your wardrobe about halfway through service just to liven things up a bit.

11. Peace Corps suggests that you bring a hat, which is something I would second, adding this: a very basic ball cap that you don't mind sweating into and which you've already bent the bill on to make it comfortable and broken in. It's good to have a hat to cover your scalp from the searing sun. Even though I have one, I never remember to wear it because I'm just not a hat person and I hate the way it makes my forehead sweat.

That's about all I have for specific tips when it comes to clothing. Obviously, don't forget to bring a bathing suit! Never forget your bathing suit!

Tuesday, November 7, 2017

Annie's Packing Tips Part 1: General Advice and Shoes

Naturally, I have to start this post by apologizing for what a shitty blogger I am and the fact that I haven't posted on this blog in like 6 months. But this is who I am as a person; I've come to accept it and you should too. Now, let's get down to business.

"Annie, I'm a future Ecuador PCV who's about to depart in, oh, let's say, less than 3 months (lookin' at you, 119). What should I bring? Should I follow the packing list that Peace Corps sent me?"
The short answer is, yes and no. (Typical Mike "It Depends" Donald-type answer.) Some of the suggestions on that list were really helpful, others were straight-up useless. All that you can be certain of is that there is no way to pack perfectly for your Peace Corps service in Ecuador. You are going to a country where cities have both "Hornoquil" and "Friobamba" as nicknames. You have no idea where your site will be, and the possibilities are dramatically different. You are going to bring shit you never use, and you are going to wish you had brought shit you didn't bring. That being said, here's my first piece of advice/musing on travel and life experiences:

1. You are going to be living in Ecuador for over 2 years. How many items (of clothing, housewares, personal belongings, etc.) have you bought in the past 2 years of your life? Probably more than you can remember right now. Ecuador is no different. You're living here; you're not here on vacation or a semester abroad. You're going to have to buy things that you need for your everyday life. The goal of packing suitcases to bring with you from home should be to minimize how much you have to buy here, but 100 pounds isn't really all that much. If you save up some money before coming to Ecuador, you can give yourself the leeway to make some riskier/more unorthodox packing choices by knowing that if there is something you missed, you can buy it here. So tip #1 would be give yourself a replenishment fund. It could be a wardrobe replenishment fund, a hair/skin/beauty products replenishment fund, or even an imported food replenishment fund. It's just nice not to have to use the same 3 outfits over and over again because you don't have enough clothes. It's also nice to not have to use the cheap Ecuadorian shampoo.

2. Speaking of replenishment, my second piece of advice would be to try to plan to either have somebody come visit you or take a trip home within the first 6 months at site. This is the perfect opportunity for restocking on American goodies. If you can plan a restock mission before you move out of your host family's house (if that's what you want to do), you can also save on having to buy housewares here in Ecuador, as anything not made locally tends to be rather more expensive thanks to taxes and import duties. Also, the earlier your restock mission occurs, the easier it is to hold out on buying a brand new wardrobe for your sweltering/freezing/wet AF site that you were totally under-prepared for.

3. Some people might advise you to pack light, maybe bring only one suitcase instead of two. To them, I say, y'all dumb as fuck. You like spending every weekend doing laundry? Or worse, not doing laundry and smelling like a sewer rat? Ok, you do you, but I hope your site is at the top of Chimborazo so you'll never have to worry about sweat stains. And yes, I am judging you on the fact that every time I see you, you're wearing the same damn pumpkin-colored sweater or charcoal v-neck which I can only assume used to be black but has faded due to the fact that you wear it Every. Single. Day. Your 2 checked bags + 1 carry-on + 1 personal item are the only opportunity you have to bring as much of home with you to your service, so don't waste it! Even if you only need a week's worth of clothes, hell, fill your other bag with peanut butter and Hot Cheetos. I'd love to have a suitcase full of peanut butter and Hot Cheetos. Just because you're in the Peace Corps, it doesn't mean that you should have to suffer. And it is well worth the expense and ONE day of taxi and bus terminal hell to get all your stuff to site. This isn't Peace Corps Mongolia; it won't take you 2 days to get from the capital to your site. Ecuador is Posh Corps. Live like it.

4. Pack more for Sierra than Coast/Oriente. You should obviously pack at least a little bit for both climates, as you will be required to experience both, but it is a guarantee that you will spend at least two and a half months in Quito, whereas it's about 50/50 whether you get a coastal or sierran site (Oriente is also technically an option, but as my experience is with TEFL and that's who I'm mainly aiming this post at, it's highly unlikely--like 1 person out of 37 in my Omni got put there). You will also regularly be going back to Quito for required trainings and conferences. Whereas, if you ended up getting a site in the Sierra and had no desire to ever go to the Coast on your own volition, you could potentially make it through your entire service having only ever gone to the Coast once, for less than a week, during a required PST trip. I wouldn't suggest it, though, because the Coast is the best. But anyway, I digress. The point is that if you pack for Sierra and end up with Coast, it'll just force you to integrate faster because people on the Coast dress like it's 54 degrees outside when it's 87. And if you schedule your restock mission early, you won't be sweating through everything you own for too long.

Now, to get into the nitty-gritty of what to pack: This list primarily concerns itself with women and TEFL volunteers, because that's what I am. Understanding your job functions clearly is key to packing appropriately.

Shoes:
I'm starting with shoes because I wear a women's size 10 (sometimes 9½), which is nearly impossible to find here. Ecuadorian women, on the whole, have much smaller feet than I do. If you wear anything bigger than an 8-8½, don't expect to be able to buy shoes here for a reasonably cheap price. For men, I don't know where the exact cutoff is, but I know 12's are out of the question, and 11's are probably very difficult to find too. I probably brought more shoes with me than most people, because I knew I wouldn't be able to buy them as often or as easily as I might back home (also I love shoes).
I brought
  • 1 pair of duck boots, 
  • 1 pair of high heels, 
  • 1 pair of wedges, 
  • 2 pairs of flats, 
  • 2 pairs of cute sandals, 
  • 1 pair of Chacos, 
  • 1 pair of flip-flops, 
  • 1 pair of slippers,  
  • and 2 pairs of sneakers: 1 with more support for running, and 1 with less support for everyday. 
The duck boots I thought would be a good idea because they, in theory, combine a rainboot with a winter/hiking boot, but in practice they are less comfortable than a real hiking boot, and as my site is Guayaquil, I would rather wear Chacos in the rain than some hot-ass boots. If my site were in the Sierra, though, I'm sure I would wear them more often. The heels I have worn exactly 1 time since leaving Miami (it was for swear-in), but if I had a do-over I'd still bring them, because I needed them for that occasion. The wedges I wore a few times to look cute, but they started to fall apart so I gave them away. I wore the flats a lot during training, so much so that one pair has almost completely disintegrated (gave them away) and the other is severely worn-down. I hardly ever wear flats at site because my feet sweat in them. All the sandals I still have and still wear regularly at site, though I didn't wear them much during training. The flip-flops and slippers are a must; I wear flip-flops all the time in my house, running quick errands, in hostel showers, on the beach, pretty much everywhere, and the slippers I wore in the house all the time in Quito, because in Ecuador you must wear shoes inside the house (and tile floors are cold). Both my pairs of sneakers were relatively new when I got here, but the ones with less support have really worn out, even though I mostly only wear them on weekends.
I also bought
  • 1 pair of loafer-style flats during training, which I regretted within a week after realizing they didn't quite fit; 
  • 1 cute pair of Brazilian-made sandals (only Brazilian shoes come in my size) when I got to site, which are the most comfortable sandals I have ever owned and which I wear at least 4 times a week; 
  • and 1 pair of flip-flops, so now I have 2 pairs of flip-flops to rotate between. 
I got a hand-me-down pair of wedges for free from the Peace Corps Bodega (a.k.a. room in the Peace Corps office where volunteers leave shit they don't want), which fell apart the first time I wore them, so I gave them away.

If I could change anything about the shoes I brought, I definitely would have brought a pair of cute but comfortable booties or mid-calf boots to wear during training. I would have worn boots every day during training, were it not for the fact that the only boots I brought were half-covered in rubber, and thus I felt they were too casual for training and especially for our teaching practicum. Even though I would never wear boots at site, I'd give up the space in my suitcase for shoes that would have looked cute and kept me warm during training. Flats are too cold for 7am in Quito! Additionally, instead of bringing 2 pairs of athletic sneakers, I would have just brought 1 pair of running/exercise shoes and 1 pair of either slip-on tennis shoes or low-top converses--something with a more casual, nondescript vibe and less of an athleisure vibe. Finally, I would have invested in some more supportive, sweat-proof teaching shoes, as I can often spend 6-7 hours straight on my feet. I don't know exactly what I would have worn for the Sierra, but have you noticed that Crocs has stepped up its shoe game recently? I am having my mom bring me 2 pairs of Crocs sandals for Christmas after one of my co-teachers said they were the only shoes she wears to teach, worth even the $70-$100 price tag they come with in Ecuador.

One thing to note about shoe culture in Ecuador: It's very common for women to wear outlandishly high heels when going out at night, as well as when working in an office environment. The streets and sidewalks are fucking terrible for high heels, though, and at 5'6", I don't really feel the need to wear heels when I go out. Certainly when I go with a group of PCVs, we usually don't feel the need to get too fancy.

Last thing: My shoes wear out much faster here than they would back home-partly because I have fewer shoe options to rotate through, but mostly because I walk about 10x as much as I did in the U.S. What would take me 4 years to do to a pair of shoes back home takes me about 6 months or less to do here.

Thursday, June 22, 2017

Hanging 'round Quito

Before I get into how I feel about living and teaching in Guayaquil, there’s a lot of stuff from training that I still need to cover. Next up is the PCV Visit.

The PCV Visit is when you go to the site of a current PCV in your program and shadow them to see what they do every day. Selection for who you go to visit is done by drawing names out of an envelope. I happened to draw the name of the one PCV in Quito hosting a trainee (technically speaking there were 2 PCVs in Quito who agreed to host trainees, but one of them got sick the week of the PCV visit so her trainee ended up going to Machala). At first I was bummed about having to stay in Quito. After all, everyone else was getting to explore new parts of Ecuador. Sure, the PCV visit is supposed to be about job shadowing, but I wanted a vacation! However, I soon learned that there were some advantages to staying in Quito for the PCV visit, the first one being the money. Peace Corps is, in fact, a bureaucracy, and like any bureaucracy, it doesn’t believe in nuance (though you will actually find it far more accepting of nuance than many other government agencies). This means that everyone receives the same amount of money to use for the PCV visit, regardless of whether you are traveling to almost-Peru and staying in a hotel for 3 nights or staying at home and commuting on a city bus each day. I basically got to pocket the money that everyone else was using for hotels and interprovincial buses. Where did that extra money go? Probably lunches at Wok to Walk (hands-down the BEST food in the Quicentro food court; pricey, but delicious) and traditional Ecuadorian clothing.

My staycation in Quito began with me arriving half an hour late to meet my PCV spirit guide (or, you know, on-time for Ecuador). We went to the Guayasamín museum, which is a beautiful house formerly owned and filled with paintings by the artist Oswaldo Guayasamín. Afterwards we walked around the city for a bit and went back to her apartment (where I had been invited to stay for the duration of the PCV visit), where I got to meet her adorable cat, Cotopaxi. The next day, I accompanied her to her school, where I got to follow her around to all her classes and see how she worked with her teachers and students. Later in the afternoon, I sat in on her salsa class, and afterwards we went to Quito Beer Garden. It’s a really neat place—there’s beer, food trucks (at that time there was Inka Burger, Waffle City, and Dragon Maya Burritos & Alitas, but the entire space has since been taken over by Inka Burger), and most awesomely, murals of world-famous people dressed as indigenous people from various tribes in Ecuador.

The next day we once again got up at an ungodly hour, went to school, and then ate lunch at Chandani Tandoori, a delicious and reasonably-priced Indian restaurant near the Mariscal. While we were in the area, we popped over to the artisanal market and perused the stalls. We spent the rest of the afternoon walking around the city until we eventually made our way to a brewery called Bandidos del Paramo in a neighborhood called La Floresta. It’s a collaboration between two other breweries in Quito: Bandidos Brewing and Paramo Brauhaus, and the beer is excellent. The fourth and final day, which also happened to be International Women’s Day, I got to experience the weird ways in which Ecuadorian schools, particularly in the Sierra, celebrate holidays or important days. The day began with an assembly in which students read prepared speeches about the importance of women and handed out individual roses to all of the female teachers. Sounds expensive, right? Don’t worry, roses are super cheap in Ecuador; it’s the world’s third-largest exporter of cut flowers. Afterwards, there was a surprise mariachi band. At this point you might be asking, why mariachi? This isn’t Mexico. It turns out that mariachi bands are actually very popular in Ecuador, especially for surprise celebrations. After several songs and lots of awkward dancing, we finally got to class, where my PCV spirit guide was able to slip the topic of women’s empowerment and feminism into her English lecture. Then the school day ended and I found my way back home.

Overall, Quito was more interesting than I expected, but I can’t wait until new TEFL volunteers come in a year and I get to show them around Guayaquil!

Museo Guayasamin


Quito Beer Garden



Thursday, April 20, 2017

A Leap in Time

I always intended this blog to have 2 main functions. The first is to communicate to interested parties back home what I am doing so that I don’t have to answer the question “How is Ecuador?” 50 times a year for 50 different people. The second is to provide a record of my time here that future Peace Corps Ecuador invitees/trainees/volunteers may be able to read to prepare themselves for the experience. So far, I am failing on both fronts. My most recent blog post describes something that happened approximately 2 months ago. My life situation is completely different right now than it was when I went to Santa Elena (not that I described much of my life situation back then in detail anyway). Neither have I written anything that could be considered very useful information for the group of trainees set to arrive at the end of May (or for any future trainees). In all honesty, if I were to actually try to keep up with this blog on a regular basis, in detail, it would become a major obstacle to me just living my life. And my daily life has really not proved to be great blog material either.

That is why this blog post, which I am writing on April 19, 2017 and intend to publish on April 20, 2017, is a break in the time-space continuum of my blog at large. This post is to quickly catch you up on the most important aspects of my life. At some point in the future I will return to writing about all of the stuff that happened during training, but since I am now a full-blown PCV and no longer a trainee, I think it’s time my readers caught up to reality.

On March 23, our Omni had its site reveal. Sites are probably what trainees stress about the most, try as we might to not, especially in Ecuador and especially in TEFL (I actually don’t know what happens within Community Health/Youth & Families) because we find out our sites relatively late during training and because in Ecuador there is so much variation between the Coast/Sierra/Oriente. My site turned out to be Guayaquil, but I already knew that. I’ll explain how I knew my site before everyone else in another post sometime in the future. We met our site host families the next day and left for our site visits the day after. We came back to Quito the next week, had about one more week of training, had our Swear-In ceremony (that also will merit its own post someday), packed up our lives, and left for our sites for good.

If you don’t know anything about Guayaquil, google it, but I’ll provide you with some quick tidbits. It’s the largest city in Ecuador. It’s hot, humid, and dangerous (supposedly). It has a great Metrovia system (a system of buses that operate like a subway, with stations and intersecting lines and automatic stops) but the regular city buses are impossible to navigate, and it is necessary to use them because the Metrovia doesn’t go everywhere. I live in an apartment in the center of the city. My host family consists of a 71 year old retired widow and her 37 year old daughter. My host mom owns the building, and we live on the top floor. I basically have my own wing, which is separated from the rest of the apartment by a hallway, and I have my own bathroom. My host family is friendly and kind and relaxed and doesn’t get all up in my business, which I really appreciate. The only downside—and this is a major downside—is that we don’t currently have internet. My host family is under contract with an internet provider and expects to eventually get it, but nobody knows when that might happen. Bureaucracy, am I right? Could be next week, next month, or next year. I know that many PCVs serving in distant lands would scoff at the hardship of no Wi-Fi, but when you’re living in a city of over 2 million people, you expect to have internet. Our way of life revolves around having internet. In a rural village, the culture has developed ways of communicating with people and passing the time sans-internet. Here in Guayaquil, we don’t just stop by the neighbors’ for a tea and a chat, it’s not considered safe to be out at night, and it can take 2 hours to get across the city by bus. The internet is what keeps us sane, and I’m afraid I’m starting to lose my mind without it. If I want to submit an assignment to Peace Corps, post on my blog, or even just download something, I have to walk 8 blocks with my laptop in my backpack (front-packing, of course; keep it where you can see it) to the nearest Sweet & Coffee (the Ecuadorian equivalent of Starbucks), all the while hoping I don’t get robbed, and spend at a minimum $1.10 (which is a pretty good chunk of change on a Peace Corps budget) on a beverage or food item I don’t necessarily even want. One nice thing about Guayaquil is that there is free public Wi-Fi in many of the parks and Metrovia stops, and it works sometimes. Still, you have to be kind of a daredevil to take your phone out in a crowded Metrovia station or on the street.

All of this is to give myself a valid excuse for why I will continually be months behind on blog posts. Also, if I start to sound rambling and disoriented in my writing, it’ll be the Guayaquil heat and lack of contact with the rest of the world that will have done me in. After all, only in a city where it is 87° and 94% humidity every day of the year would you see a man crossing the street, barefoot and homeless wearing a KFC bucket as a hat, with a gigantic grin on his face. It takes a long period of exposure to cultivate that sort of crazy.



Saturday, April 1, 2017

Santa Elena (on a bus)

Once again, I'd like to start this post by apologizing that it has taken me nearly 2 months to write about the following experience. This trip took place right before the first round of Ecuadorian elections, and we are now in the midst of the second (and hopefully final) round.

Around the third week of February, we had our very first trip of Peace Corps training: the coast cultural trip. We were divided into 4 groups and sent to various places within the "coastal region" of Ecuador. The "Coast" as a region, by the way, does not necessarily mean beachside views. It simply refers to the area of low elevation west of the Sierra (mountains). It's like how anything east of the Appalachians is the "East Coast" even though I was nowhere near the ocean living in Winston-Salem. Some people were so unfortunate as to end up in the Forsyth County of Ecuador.



For the coast trip, I went to the town of Ballenita in the province of Santa Elena. It's a small town right on the oceanfront with only a couple of main paved roads (the rest are more like dirt paths). It kind of reminds me of Ocracoke in some ways, though it's definitely more populated. I stayed with the host family of a current Youth and Families volunteer who is also from North Carolina, so we had quite a time reminiscing about places and food back home. His host niece turned 2 while I was there, so I got to go to a legit Ecuadorian birthday party, with chips passed around individually on trays, a massive pot of arroz con pollo, and a guest list to rival a neighborhood block party. Of course, we waited a good 2 hours for all of the guests to arrive, but that's ecua-time for you. There's also a curious tradition of each and every individual family unit posing for a photo with the birthday girl beside the cake display after singing Happy Birthday but before cutting the cake, so that process also took about half an hour. Naturally, the night ended with all the children being put to bed and the remaining aunts, uncles, and cousins passing around a bottle of whiskey and dancing.

Ecuadorian arroz con pollo: the pot takes up 4 burners.

Piñata time!

It's not over until the uncles dance.

Once that fun was over, we got to spend the next two days being dragged from town to town across the province of Santa Elena by our LCF's (language and culture facilitators, a.k.a. Spanish teachers) in the blazing sun and 90% humidity. I jest; most of my travel companions were wilting under the coastal conditions, but to me it just felt like summer in Jacksonville. Heat, humidity, and mosquitoes are nothing I can't handle. The towns/cities we shuffled between—Santa Elena, La Libertad, and Ballenita—were really fairly bearable as soon as the sea breeze would come in. The main focus of our activities in the area was fishing: We interviewed fishermen on the malecón in La Libertad, went to the fish market, and learned how to knot together a fishing net by hand. There was one afternoon when we also visited the Amantes de Sumpa museum, named for a roughly 10,000 year old pair of skeletons found embracing in their grave, which details the archaeological history of the ancient Las Vegas culture on the coast of what is now Ecuador. Then, we did an interpretive dance about it. This may have been the most interesting activity we endured on the trip.



I don't remember what this move symbolizes, but I do remember
that I was laughing at them when they had to do it.

This saga ends with a somewhat comical adventure involving Ecuadorian elections, Ley Seca, and my birthday, but as I am still under the watchful eye of training staff, y'all will have to stay tuned to hear the rest of the story later on.